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| Friday, 13-Mar-2009 17:03 |
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KELATÉ 1890 : On a Raft Through a Forbidden State ( 2 )
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KELATÉ 1890 :
On a Raft Through a Forbidden State ( 2 )
( The Part Two i.e. the final part - as promised. Sorry for the very long " pause " )
Part 2 :
Henry Norman, Kota Bharu and The Sultan of Kelantan
* " The Raja of Kelantan will not dare to touch one hair of my moustache "
Sir Norman, arrogantly responding to the warning given to him by a group of local
Chinese whom he came across on the Kelantan River, somewhere between Kuala
Krai and Tanah Merah, while on his way to Kota Bharu.
In his previous notes, he described how the group of Chinese warned him by
communicating through one of his men that the news of their illegal entrance into
Kelantan, without the Sultan's consent had reached Kota Bharu and that a vessel
loaded with armed men is heading towards them to finish them off.
But of course, being an orghae puteh ( white man ) who was fully aware of his
position in the World's greatest empire of the day, Sir Norman took the warning very
lightly and decided to dismiss it as harmless and nothing more than just a " Chinese lie ".
He was right after all as nothing happened afterward, reaching Kota Bharu unscathed.
Despite his claim, his words however reflect otherwise. Somewhere between those
lines, I could sense his feelings of uncertainty and insecurity, which he tried to
extinguish by relating such threat to the outcomes of two well known incidents of his day.
( One being the Assassination of Perak British Resident, J.W.W Birch ( 1875 ) and
the other being the mysterious killing of a British subject, a Chinaman by the name Goh
Hui in 1888, whose body was found in the Sultan of Pahang's ( Sultan Ahmad ) palace
ground. Both events resulted in serious retaliations in Perak and Pahang .... )
Here is another interesting remark by Sir Norman on the Sultan of Kelantan, as quoted
from the same chapter :
| Quote: |
" .. the Sultan of Kelantan, whose mere name sent a shudder through the natives
even here in another State .... "
( Chapter XXXIII : On a Raft Through a Forbidden State, page 562 )
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( Only God knows how proud I am with the author’s statement ! Ha ha ha )
* Setting His Foot On Kota Bharu
Sir Norman, describing his first time in Kota Bharu.
Meeting the Sultan of Kelantan was the very first thing in his mind upon
reaching the capital. However, with all the disturbing thoughts he had on the
Kelantanese ruler, he decided to wait and see, lying as low as possible from the
Sultan’s sight ( like told above ). He was hoping that someone of status, preferably a
member of the ruling house, could help him arrange a formal meeting with the Sultan,
in order to explain his peaceful intention. For this, his Chinese guide introduced him to
a minister by the name, Sri Paduka Wan Yusof who I will describe later.
As for the Malay town mentioned above, I strongly believe that it refers to the present
day Kubang Pasu-Sungai Keladi-Sungai Budor while the Chinese town is unmistakably
Kampung Cina at what is now Jalan Pantai Cahaya Bulan.
* Kampung Cina, 1905 ( Photo credit : W.A. Graham )
" Kota Bharu is very much like other Malay towns except for its big mosque ".
The big, old, wooden mosque of Kota Bharu, which Sir Norman saw during his visit
to the capital of Kelantan, serving not only as a place of worship but also an institute of
learning i.e. an Islamic seminary. Perhaps the grandest traditional mosque in the
Peninsular, during its time.
The mosque was brought down in mid 20th century, in favour of a new colonial style,
brick building, we all now know as " Masjid Muhammadi ".
( I hope that it could be restored, rebuilt again one day, in Kota Bharu .... )
* Note :
The first photo was taken in 1905 by W.A. Graham whereas the second photo shows
the remaining part of the old mosque, as taken in 1940s.
The concrete building seen on the extreme right in the second photo is in fact, a part of
the present day Masjid Muhammadi, one of its minarets - built on the site of the
previously demolished parts of the old mosque.
* Making an appointment to meet the Sultan.
Sir Norman meeting a minister, Sri Paduka Wan Yusuf, requesting for an appointment
with the Sultan of Kelantan.
From the above, one would instantly notice that Sri Paduka Wan Yusuf was not an
ordinary minister. For a man capable of arranging such meeting, he must had been a
State Secretary or at least a special advisor to the Sultan.
The name “ Sri Paduka Wan Yusuf “ sounds very familiar, it rang a bell. I decided to do
some quick research on this man mentioned by Sir Norman and it did not take long for
me to recall a very similar name from an online article I previously read in the
Perbadanan Muzium Kelantan's website ( on the Kelantan World War II Memorial or the
Bank Kerapu ).
So, I went to the site again, and there it was, a description of a man that very much
resembles Sri Paduka Wan Yusuf, only with slightly different name. Didn’t take long for
me to realise that the one mentioned in the article ( see below ), is exactly the same man
whom Henry Norman described as :
" a big heavy man with a cruel shaven face and cropped hair "
( For those who claim to be his descendant, now you know how your great granddad looked like ! )
| Quote: |
Latarbelakang
Tapak asal bangunan ini dimiliki oleh Nik Yusoff bin Nik Abd. Majid yang bergelar Dato'
Sri Paduka Raja. Beliau lebih dikenali dengan Pak Nik Soh Pak Nik Ad atau disebut
juga Sri Paduka Nik Yusoff atau Nik Sri Paduka. Beliau adalah seorang Pembesar
Kelantan yang terkenal sejak zaman pernerintahan Sultan Ahmad (1886-1889) dan
zaman Sultan Muhammad 111 (1889-1890). Beliau telah dilantik menjadi Menteri Besar
Kelantan dari tahun 1894 hingga 1900.
Tanah tapak bangunan itu telah dibeli oleh syarikat bank "The Mercantile Bank of India
Limited yang membina sebuah bangunan bank cawangannya di Kelantan. Bangunan
bank itu dibina dan siap serta digunakan pada tahun 1912. Pengurus yang pertama
ialah Encik Muir iaitu seorang Inggeris.
Dinding bangunan tersebut ditampalkan dengan simen yang berkerutu. Dalam bahasa
daerah Kelantan keadaan tidak licin itu disebut 'kerapu'. Daripada itu bank tersebut
telah dikenali sebagai Bank Kerapu hinggalah sekarang ini.
Source :
Perbadanan Muzium Negeri Kelantan - Bank Kerapu ( Memorial Perang Dunia Ke-2)
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* A plan for rebellion
The day before Sir Norman was scheduled to meet the Sultan of Kelantan, two strangers
came to him and introduced themselves as the brothers to the Kelantanese ruler.
What amazed him so much was the nature of the surprise visit which he described
in his book as;
| Quote: |
" .... one of my strangest Eastern experiences ....
.... two visitors who made to me the most remarkable proposal it has
ever been my lot to receive .... "
( Chapter XXXIII : On a Raft Through a Forbidden State, page 578)
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The above excerpt explains all.
( See ' Conclusion ' for more explanations )
* Coming face to face with the Sultan of Kelantan.
Sir Norman finally got his chance to meet the Sultan of Kelantan, through a formal
reception at the Istana, arranged to his wish by Paduka Sri Wan Yusuf.
( Notice how he described the scene in the reception hall ( Balai ), the clothing,
the people and all that .... )
Unfortunately, the meeting turned out to be a rather unpleasant experience for Sir
Norman. He was expecting that the Sultan would greet and receive him like a state
guest but what he got was totally the opposite. The unfriendly air of the reception
and the way he was expected to appear before the Sultan, as described above had
left Sir Norman with the impression of being most unwelcome. I have no idea what
the Sultan of Kelantan had in mind about Sir Norman at the very moment he laid his
eyes on him but one thing for sure, the latter was already gearing up for the worst.
From what he wrote, we know that Sir Norman came before the Kelantanese ruler
with already much reservations and hard feelings, all arose from the words he heard
while in Perak, the “Chinese Lie“ incident on the Kelantan River and some other
small incidents with the latest, took place just a day before the meeting, being the
treacherous proposal made by the Sultan own brothers. ( It seems that he himself
was partly if not entirely responsible for the uneasy experience ! )
The author managed to translate some of those feelings by refusing to sit on the
bare floor, reacting in a way that almost cost him trouble. Lucky for the author, the
Sultan remained unperturbed and the conversation that followed later between the
two, appeared to be nothing beyond extraordinary. There were no hard talks, deep
discussions or anything close. Just a casual chat, simple exchange of questions
and answers in which the Sultan denied all the allegations that he had given out
order to stop foreigners especially Europeans from entering the state, and that
the people whom the author met were just exaggerating things.
( Though the Sultan later told the author how he was deeply upset by an incident
involving a European man which occured some time before the author's arrival. The
man came to Kota Bharu and took away the wife of a local chief ...... )
Unsurprisingly, Sir Norman chose to remain cautious, maintaining his suspicion
in the Sultan. The meeting ended as fast as it started.
* Leaving Kelantan with a “ parting gift “.
Sir Norman did not stay long in Kota Bharu.
He did not state exactly how long, maybe a few days or so as suggested in his writing.
At the end of the meeting with the Sultan, he requested a guaranteed safe passage out
of Kelantan for him and his men. He asked for two boats. One for him and his Indian
bodyguards to take to Kuala Terengganu where he would later take a steamer to
Singapore, and the other boat for the rest of his men to take to Pattani.
The Sultan granted his wish and a few days later, he found himself sailing out of
Kelantan, again down the Kelantan River. When he reached Kuala Besar, where the
river meets the South China Sea, an incident took place that almost cost the author his
life. In the dark of the night, a gang of armed men attacked his boat. Luckily, he
managed to resist the assault with the help of his two bodyguards and the skirmish
ended with the attackers fleeing the scene with one casualty on their side.
Though it might be nothing more than a case of piracy ( considering that he did not
make up the entire incident ), the author decided to link his bad experience with the
Sultan of Kelantan and Sri Paduka Wan Yusuf - accusing the two for the attempt on his
life. I have no idea how far this is true. From his words, it is obvious that the author
was merely assuming it and that he himself had no idea who was the real culprit nor
the real reason behind the attack.
The author arrived in Kuala Terengganu days later.
By then, it was already three months since he left Hulu Perak. He stated in the book
how he was well received by the Sultan of Terengganu, and was far better treated than
what he went through in Kota Bharu. Terengganu was merely a short stopover for the
author ( nothing like Kelantan is described about Terengganu in the book ). From there,
he took a steamer and left for Singapore, summing up his Malayan trip for good.
CONCLUSION : Learning From The Past ....
Go through the chapter and it won’t take long for one to realise that Sir Henry Norman, apart from describing his adventure across Kelantan, also made many bizarre remarks concerning the Sultan of Kelantan of the day. Most are very critical, many are offensive and some are even prejudice in nature.
Still, I could sense some level of fairness and honesty from his writing. Having gone through the chapter, I have to admit that his descriptions on Kelantan had provided me with a more clearer picture on what really went on during the years leading to British involvement in the state. Indeed, his accounts have helped much in improving my personal understanding of the very little known political episode pre-colonial Kelantan, especially during the late 19th century.
Kelantan, at the time of the author’s visit, was ruled by Tengku Ahmad Bendahara, one of many sons of Sultan Ahmad ( Sultan Tengah ) who took to the throne after his father’s death in 1888. He took the title Sultan Muhammad III and ruled Kelantan amidst his brothers’ disapproval and protest. The Sultan ruled Kelantan for a relatively very short period. His death has never been explained and remains a mystery to this day. Having read Sir Norman’s, that would be no surprise at all as it seems to suggest a probable cause which I chose not to describe.
Sultan Muhammad III was succeeded by his brother, who took the title, Sultan Mansor. Though not mentioned by name in Sir Norman’s book, he was said to be, according to W.A.Graham ( “ Kelantan : A State of The Malay Peninsular “, Glasgow, 1908 ), the prince who asked Sir Norman’s help in overthrowing his brother, Sultan Muhammad III - whom Sir Norman described as a “ young man of great intelligence and kindliness of character “ in his book ( as already quoted above ). Ironically, his reign was much shorter than his brother. He died after three years on the throne and like his predecessor, with a cause that was lost to history.
W.A.Graham did a better study on this matter and had a lot more to share. Graham continued from the point where Sir Norman left hanging. He had the episode described much further in his book, in good details, in a chronological order starting from the death of Sultan Tengah up to his presence in Kelantan, parts of which are posted below :
 
 
 
 
Having gone through both sources, I started to ponder to myself.
I do not wish to have those thoughts put in words here, since I do not wish them to be misinterpreted. However, looking at the current Malaysian political scenario, I strongly feel the need to express, to state here that no matter how true, important or sincere our political agenda would be, staying united and working for the good of all is still the top priority. History taught us how personal ambitions and the attempt to achieve it through foreign hands had brought forth many dreaded events in the history of the Malays. The 1876 Pangkor Agreement and Raffles acquisition of Singapura are some fine examples.
My conclusion is simple. Let bygone be bygone. But at the same time, let the past be the teacher. A teacher who will lead us into a better future. A future with dignity. Mistakes are made to be learned from, and never to be repeated.
Only those who learned from the past, from history, shall find his way through thousands of uncertainties of the future.
| Quote: |
" Whoever wishes to foresee the future must consult the past; for human
events ever resemble those of preceding times. This arises from the fact that they
are produced by men who ever have been, and ever shall be, animated by the same
passions, and thus they necessarily have the same results. " - Machiavelli
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Note :
Kelantanese Sultans from late 19th century to early 20th century, in chronological order :
1) Sultan Ahmad ( Sultan Tengah ) ibni Sultan Muhammad II
2) Sultan Muhammad III ibni Sultan Ahmad ( Sultan Tengah )
3) Sultan Mansor ibni Sultan Ahmad ( Sultan Tengah )
4) Sultan Muhammad IV ibni Sultan Muhammad III
* ref : http://www.royalark.net/Malaysia/kelant6.htm
* Sultan Ahmad Tengah ( aka Sultan Ahmad ibni Sultan Muhammad II, died in 1888 ) was the father of Tengku Bongsu ( * read : " Lost and Found : Rumah Tengku Bongsu " ), my great grandmother on my father's side - which makes Sultan Muhammad III ( according to W.A. Graham's account, he was also known as Ahmat Bendahara or Sultan Ahmat ), my great granduncle.
RELATED : Something To Ponder …
| Quote: |
'Amir bin Said dari bapanya berkata bahawa : "Satu hari Rasulullah S.A.W telah
datang dari daerah berbukit. Apabila Rasulullah S.A.W sampai di masjid Bani
Mu'awiyah lalu beliau masuk ke dalam masjid dan menunaikan solat dua rakaat.
Maka kami pun turut solat bersama dengan Rasulullah S.A.W.
Kemudian Rasulullah S.A.W berdoa dengan doa yang agak panjang kepada
Allah S.W.T :
Setelah selesai beliau berdoa maka Rasulullah S.A.W pun berpaling kepada kami
lalu bersabda yang bermaksud :
"Aku telah bermohon kepada Allah S.W.T tiga perkara, dalam tiga perkara itu cuma
dia memperkenankan dua perkara sahaja dan satu lagi ditolak.
1. Aku telah bermohon kepada Allah S.W.T supaya ia tidak membinasakan umatku
dengan musim susah yang berpanjangan. Permohonanku ini diperkenankan oleh
Allah S.W.T.
2. Aku telah bermohon kepada Allah S.W.T supaya umatku ini jangan dibinasakan
dengan bencana tenggelam (seperti banjir besar yang telah melanda umat Nabi Nuh
a.s. ). Permohonanku ini telah diperkenankan oleh Allah S.W.T.
3. Aku telah bermohon kepada Allah S.W.T supaya umatku tidak dibinasakan
kerana pergaduhan sesama mereka (peperangan, pergaduhan antara sesama Islam).
Tetapi permohonanku telah tidak diperkenankan (telah ditolak).
Dipetik dari :
http://dakwahislamiah.blogspot.com/2008/03/allah-menolak-satu-doa-daripada-tiga.html
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RELATED : “ Henry Norman and Kelantan “
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| Friday, 10-Oct-2008 15:00 |
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KELATÉ 1890 : On a Raft Through a Forbidden State ( 1 )
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The Opening Page
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Kelantan in the Last Chapter
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KELATÉ 1890 :
On a Raft Through a Forbidden State ( 1 )
The Intro
Just got my hands on this book :
*A 2005 reprinted paperback edition by Elibron Classics - Adamant Media
Corporation - acquired online.
Consisting of 730 pages in 33 chapters, of mostly text and few photos.
" The Peoples and Politics of The Far East ",
by Henry Norman ( then Sir Henry Norman, 1858 ~ 1939 ) – a world travelling English journalist, author and politician on his “ travels and studies in the British, French, Spanish and Portuguese colonies, Siberia, China, Japan, Korea, Siam and Malaya ".
First published in London in 1895 by T.Fisher Unwin.
The author, attached to several leading news publications of the day, was primarily known in the West for his many updates on the conditions of the Far East during the late 19th century. His work appeared in many publications and news report, occasionally pushing him into the limelight as well - like this article, appeared in a prominent American newspaper, over a hundred years ago ( notice the word “ Kelantan “ ) :
From : The New York Times Online Archive, 6 Nov 1898
* Note :
Sir Henry Norman was actually not “ the first European “ as described in
the above excerpt.
He was definitely among the first, probably the second or third to accomplish
so safely after Carlo Ferdinando Bozzolo, an Italian entrepreneur, later a district officer
serving the British in Hulu Perak, crossed the Peninsular into Kelantan in 1889.
The author, not only admitted to the fact in the book but also met Bozzolo
during his Malayan trip and had Bozzolo showed him the way into Kelantan.
But unfortunately, unlike Norman, Bozzolo did not come up with any
published work on his stay in Malaya thus nothing is known, at least
so far, of his Kelantanese experience.
Back to the book.
The final chapter, Chapter XXXIII - On A Raft Through A Forbidden State, tells of the author's extraordinary voyage across pre-colonial Kelantan which took place around 1890 - roughly 13 years before the state came under British control.
It contains the most interesting reference on old Kelantan I found so far, since W.A. Graham's 1908 " Kelantan : A State of The Malay Peninsular " - answering many questions I used to have concerning late 19th century Kelantan and even revealing troves of information regarding my own root.
The author, Sir Henry Norman, was among the first Europeans ( probably the second or third ) to traverse the breadth of pre-colonial Kelantan, which during the time was among the least explored corners of the Malay Peninsular ( well, by the Europeans of course ). He started his three months journey in British occupied Perak, using the least popular route of the day – across the Peninsular, through the most unforgiving part of the Titiwangsa. He took off from Hulu Perak, crossing the mountainous thick jungle on elephant’s back and on foot, passing through the old Malay states of Reman and Legeh, before entering the Kelantanese realm through Pergau - in present day, Jajahan Jeli.
From there, he took a raft down the Kelantan River all the way to the state capital, Kota Bharu where he managed to get an audience with the Sultan of Kelantan but also found himself unintentionally involved in a plan to overthrow the Sultan by the Sultan’s traitorous brothers ( I find this part to be the most interesting ). He left for Singapore via Terengganu soon after, unscathed but badly shaken by an attempt on his life at Kuala Besar while sailing out of the state – an incident, he alleged to have occurred as a result from the unpleasant audience he had earlier with the Sultan.
What the author went through in Kelantan is interesting, noteworthy and served as a good reference on what really occurred ( and also giving clues to what might have happened ) in the state shortly before the arrival of the British. It is equally interesting to read from the author, of how Kelantan was negatively perceived by non-Kelantanese, both by other natives of the Peninsular and Europeans of the day. In the earlier parts of the chapter, he described Kelantan as a closed and forbidden corner of the Peninsular’s East Coast, seen by other Malays as a treacherous realm, ruled by xenophobic, cruel petty chiefs, warring mobs and gangs of highwaymen. A notion which I noticed, he tried hard to prove in his account on Kelantan.
From his words, one could simply tell how uneasy the author was when he started his journey and how unhappy he was when he made his way out the state. Nevertheless, from his words one could also tell how the author was enthralled and fascinated by Kelantan's vast potentials and interesting qualities – from the interior littered with gold, to the hustle and bustle of its lively towns.
Though not as detailed as that of Graham’s, Norman’s descriptions are certainly of different historical level and significance compared to Graham’s, that I believe might be pretty helpful when it comes to studying matters related to pre-colonial Kelantan. So, here I got some scanned parts of the book posted for those interested to learn more. Not many but more than enough to grasp much of the author's Kelantanese experience. These excerpts are from the first half of the author’s journey and I will putting up the rest in a different, upcoming entry.
So, please, do look forward for the next entry.
Not enough ? Need more ?
Maybe this or this could help ! *
* Spoiler : 730 pages with only around 30 pages on Kelantan ....
* The Where's Where of Henry Norman's time
An old map showing the political boundaries of several Malay states
( most are now defunct ) in the North-eastern corner of the Malay
Peninsular, prior to 1909 Bangkok Agreement.
Kelantan was also shown, interconnected with Legeh and Reman,
the two of which are mentioned in the book.
Source :
' Keturunan Raja-Raja Kelantan dan Peristiwa-Peristiwa Bersejarah '
( Abdullah bin Mohamed ( Nakula ), Perbadanan Muzium Negeri Kelantan, 1981 )
via Hikayat Usop's Siapa Long Yunus ?
Part 1 : From Perak into Kelantan
* The author, Henry Norman and the raft that took him to Kota Bharu.
Taken at an unknown spot on the Kelantan River, but judging by the width of the river in
the background, the location must surely be somewhere deep in the interior.
Probably Kuala Pergau.
* The author's opening words on Kelantan.
Here, the author cited Bozzolo as the first European who accomplished the feat that
he was trying to accomplish himself through the journey and also the difficulty of
gaining access into the state.
Notice how he described the Raja of Kelantan ( who he also referred to as the Sultan
of Kelantan ).
On " H.M. Becher ", I did some online research about the man and found out the following :
| Quote: |
1893 - H M Becher, seorang lagi individu yang dikatakan sedang memeriksa
daerah itu memutuskan untuk berkhemah di atas sebuah pulau (beting pasir) yang
terletak di tengah sungai Tahan. Becher mengabaikan nasihat penduduk tempatan
yang mengatakan kawasan itu tidak selamat kerana sering dinaiki air. Ketika air
pasang, beliau hilang selepas terjatuh ke dalam sungai ketika sampan yang
dinaikinya karam.
From :
http://ms.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gunung_Tahan#Kronologi_berkaitan_Gunung_Tahan
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According to the above, Becher drowned in Sungai Tahan ( River Tahan ) when his
encampment, built on one of the river's unsteady sandbanks was washed away by a
sudden surge of water. He was previously warned by the locals of the risk in doing
so but being an orang puteh, he probably thought that there is a lot of other
important things to consider than listening to the savages ..... until it was too late.
Becher was surverying the area ( in his attempt to gain access to the highest point in the
Peninsular – the Gunung Tahan ), when the accident occurred.
* In Kelantan, on The River Pergau.
As soon as the author left Legeh, he made his way to the Sungai Pergau
( River Pergau ), one of Kelantan River many tributaries and had a sturdy raft
constructed out of bamboo for the next leg of his journey - to the state capital,
Kota Bharu.
Of course, the author was not travelling alone. Along with him were two Punjabi
soldiers serving as his bodyguards, a Chinese guide and several anxious Malay
porters and assistants from the West Coast who the author described as :
| Quote: |
" There was nothing to prevent them deserting me, and the very name of Kelantan
was almost enough to strike terror into them ..... "
( Chapter XXXIII : On a Raft Through a Forbidden State, page 571 )
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The two kampungs or villages mentioned above, " Kampong Reka Bharu " and
" Kampong Reka Tua " were the first settlements encountered by the author
in his journey through Kelantan.
Located close to the River Pergau, not far from each other, they are still there today.
Only to be known ( spelled ) at present as " Kampung Reka Baru " and " Kampung
Reka Lama ", well, nothing much changed, located in modern day Jajahan Jeli.
If I am not mistaken, the word “ Reka “ is actually pronounced as “ Ghuh-kor “ which
according to the author, means " Echo " in English. Either the word is an archaic
Kelantanese term or it is just me with my not-so-rich Kelantanese vocabs, I have never
heard of such word being used with such meaning.
Can anyone clarify this?
And also ... where is this “ Bukit Pagah “ located ?
* Bird sniping with the headman and prospecting for gold.
The author, enjoying a relaxing moment at " Kampong Dusun Renda ".
The place, still exist today as " Kampung Dusun Rendah " is located by the
River Pergau, just a short distance downriver from Kampung Reka Lama and
Kampung Reka Baru in present day, Jajahan Jeli.
There, the author also met an old man who claimed to have served the British in
Selangor as a guide ( the Kelantanese have been venturing outside of their home state
for various reasons, since the olden days ! ) and at the time of the visit, was making a
living with gold collected from his private mine.
Kelantan was and still is famous for its gold bearing interiors.
The first Chinese settlement in Kelantan, the Gua Musang Pulai settlement was
established solely because of gold mining and the first formal British presence in
Kelantan was largely due to gold and other valuable minerals found in Kelantanese
deep interior ( The Duff Development Company, 1900s ).
By the way, I wonder, where is this Kuala Jinam, Kuala Tosi and Kuala Tuko ?
* Arriving at Tanah Merah.
The author, making a brief stop at Tanah Merah for provisions, and
of course, for some inspection as well.
Unknown to the author, Tanah Merah at the time was a frontier town,
which would be no surprise at all when he described the place as
“ the first time we saw signs of life and commerce “.
The modern version of Tanah Merah is located quite a distance from the river,
now serving not only an administrative township for the District ( Jajahan ) of Tanah
Merah but also a famous stop over point for those travelling the East-West Highway.
Interesting, there was blachang ( belacan ) but …. huh, no Budu !?
This is blesphemous ! Hahaha ..
* A sojourn at " Kampong Panah ".
" Panah " or in modern day spelling, Panau.
The hill mentioned by the author is Bukit Panau, a famous landmark in present day
Jajahan Tanah Merah, believed by some Kelantanese to be a place of mystic and
magic, of Puteri Saadong and Paduka Che Siti Wan Kembang.
Here's a good read on Bukit Panau.
* Henry Norman in Pasir Mas.
During the author’s visit, Pasir Mas was a thriving town of great importance
located close to the Kelantan River. The place, as reported by the author,
was teaming with activities and well cultured inhabitants, going around in
splendid colourful attire.
( Pak Zawi, your great grandparents might be among the crowd ! )
Pasir Mas, during its heyday, used to be regarded as just second to Kota Bharu.
Now, neighboring town of Tanah Merah appears to be more prosperous and vibrant.
On a different note, Galena is mineral primarily comprised of Lead Sulfide ( PbS ),
a chief source for Lead ( Pb ).
By the way, where is this place called “ Penei “ by the author ? Supposed to be
somewhere in Jajahan Pasir Mas. Any clue ?
* Reaching the late 19th century Kota Bharu.
I like the idea of walking around town with at least two keris tucked steadily at the waist.
Do that now, and you'll probably end up at the police station.
* Kota Bharu that Henry Norman did not see.
Foreground, present day Kelantan River and in the background, modern day Kota Bharu - circa 2008.
Snapped using a " borrowed " Nikon D80, with some image touch-up …
COMING UP !
The Second and Final Part -
NORMAN'S KELANTAN : On a Raft Through a Forbidden State (2)
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| Wednesday, 1-Oct-2008 00:00 |
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SALAM AIDILFITRI 1429 H
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SALAM AIDIL FITRI 1429 H :
1 SYAWAL 1429 @ 1 OKTOBER 2008
* Solat Aidil Fitri - Masjid Telipot, Jalan Telipot, Kota Bharu, Kelantan.
* Selamat Hari Raya Aidil Fitri 1429 H dan Maaf Zahir Batin.
* Idea pembikinan entri kali ini dikitar semula dengan hensemnya dari entri raya dua tahun dahulu.
* Kerana, hidup ini hanyalah siri-siri aliran peristiwa yang sentiasa berulang dan diulang.
* Foto adalah ihsan penangan Fujifilm Finepix F420, yer, aku tahu .... antik.
* Arggghhh ... aku nak kamera baru !!
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| Thursday, 11-Sep-2008 12:00 |
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FILLER ENTRY : Jawi Bloopers in Kota Bharu
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FILLER ENTRY :
Jawi Bloopers In Kota Bharu
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bloop·er ( blupər ) ; [bloo-per] - noun
1. Informal A clumsy mistake, especially one made in public; a faux pas.
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BLOOPER No. 1 : For already 35 years or 53 years ?
* Note :
Puzzled ? Need explanation ? Proceed to my previous entry.
Oh, who says that I am only targeting Courts ? He he he ...
BLOOPER No. 2 : Either a typo or a counterfeit by the name " INDOCHAFÉ !
* Note : Indo [ ɪndoʊ ] + café [ kæˈfeɪ, kə- or, Fr. kaˈfeɪ ]
DISCLAIMER 101
Oh, don't get me wrong.
I have nothing against the above businesses nor problems with Jawi in public.
In fact, it really feels great to have all the billboards and signage around town, especially those put up by big names out there, with messages in bold and big Jawi transliterations (or better, just Jawi) on them. They surely give Kota Bharu, a very unique identity, that perhaps no other cities and towns in Malaysia could match.
But of course, provided that the true purpose is clear (ke arah memperkasa, menjiwai dan merakyatkan tulisan Jawi) and not simply for the sake of obeying the basic requirements set by the local authority.
Long live Jawi !
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| Sunday, 7-Sep-2008 15:00 |
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NOSTALGIA SUPERMARKET : Haah !? PARKSON Marghi Semulaa Kor ?
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Apa Yang Dahulunya - Parkson Ria Jalan Tok Hakim
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NOSTALGIA SUPERMARKET :
Haah !? PARKSON Marghi Semulaa Kor ?
* Kain rentang recruitment pasaraya Parkson - untuk cawangan yang bakal dibuka di bandar Kota Bharu.
( Lokasi kain rentang - depan Muda Osman, Jalan Padang Garong )
Parkson Marghi Semulaa Kkoto Barghu !
PARKSON sebenarnya bukanlah nama baru bagi rakyat Kelantan, khususnya bagi Orghae Koto Barghu dan bagi mereka yang membesar dalam era awal 90an, nama Parkson mungkin sesuatu yang bererti.
Seingat aku, dulu Parkson wujud di Kelantan dengan nama PARKSON RIA yang beroperasi di Jalan Tok Hakim, mengambil ruang Wisma Dato Nachi - bangunan sama yang sebelum itu menempatkan supermarket "Emporium" ( masihkah kau ingat ? ). Seangkatan dengan Parkson ketika itu adalah Hankyu Jaya dan Bersatu, kedua-duanya juga berstatus supermarket.
Kalau tak silap, Parkson hanya sempat beroperasi selama beberapa tahun sahaja sebelum ditutup sekitar 15 tahun dahulu. Bersatu dan Hankyu Jaya menyusul tidak lama kemudian. Bersatu mungkin lebih bernasib baik kerana diserap oleh The Store, yang kemudiannya berkembang kepada tiga cawangan di Kota Bharu, tetapi sekarang sudah menyusut kepada satu sahaja di Jalan Padang Garong.
Dan kini, siapa sangka yang Parkson akan muncul semula di Kota Bharu !
Perihal ini disahkan oleh petikan akhbar berikut :
| Quote: |
DEPARTMENT store operator Parkson Corp Sdn Bhd will have an additional
934,000 sq ft of retail space by 2009 as it opens six stores and expands two
of its existing outlets.
Parkson now has 33 outlets nationwide with a total retail area measuring
2.6 million sq ft.
Chief operating officer Toh Peng Koon said these openings are those that have
been confirmed and there will in fact be more to come as it negotiates with
shopping complex owners.
"There will be more. We negotiate with 90 per cent of the malls that have been
planned for opening," he said. However, as all negotiations go, only a few will
materialise in the end.
This Lion Group's retail arm last opening here was in October of 2005 in Alamanda,
Putrajaya.
This year will see the retailer opening at Sunway Carnival, Prai; the Pavilion, Kuala
Lumpur; Kota Baru Trade Centre (KBTC), Kelantan; and Spring in Kuching,
Sarawak.
Source :
Malaysia Property News Blog : " Parkson : Bigger retail space, new outlets in store "
( Original Source : NSTP Business Times )
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Dilihatkan pada senario semasa, Parkson nampaknya akan mengambil tempat yang dahulunya pernah digembar gembur akan diambil oleh Giant Hypermarket.
Emmm .... apa apa pun, aku nak tengok, berapa lama Parkson akan kekal kali ini,
dan kepingin juga nak tengok,
apa yang bakal terjadi kepada The Store Jalan Padang Garong nanti !
* Sebelum itu, pasaraya besar ( hypermarket ) Giant diwar-warkan sebagai Anchor Tenant,
tetapi Giant kemudiannya " menghilang " sebelum muncul semula nun jauh di Bandar Baru Tunjong.
BERKAITAN ( 1 )
Sekadar rujukan.
Foto-foto ( snapshots ) Kota Bharu Trade Center ( KBTC ) dalam beberapa peringkat pembinaan.
Pada 28 Mei 2006 ....
pada 6 Oktober 2007 ....
dan terkini, pada 7 September 2008 !
 
BERKAITAN ( 2 )
* Pasaraya Chin Seng di Jalan Hilir Pasar, Kota Bharu.
Di Kota Bharu sekarang terdapat tiga pasaraya bertaraf hypermarket ( Tesco, Pacific KB Mall dan Pantai Timur Pengkalan Chepa ) dan lebih 10 buah yang bertaraf pasaraya biasa atau supermarket ( entah, terlampau banyak, tak dapat nak kira ... mungkin lebih lagi ).
Supermarket ( pasaraya ) Pantai Timur di Jalan Pintu Pong adalah antara yang paling lama masih beroperasi di Kota Bharu, sudah sekitar suku abad.
Antara paling lama kerana, jika kalian tanya aku, yang paling lama adalah yang ini - Pasaraya Chin Seng - DATUK kepada segala pasaraya di Kota Bharu ! Masih kekal di tapak asal, dalam keadaan asal, sejak hampir 40 tahun dahulu !
Dalam gegak gempita suasana komersialisme sekarang, mungkin ada yang berasa janggal bila aku menyebutnya sebagai " pasaraya ". Tetapi cuba bayangkan keadaan yang sama, dalam dua dekad yang lampau.
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| Monday, 1-Sep-2008 04:00 |
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SALAM RAMADHAN 1429 H
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SALAM RAMADHAN 1429 H
Marhaban ya Ramadhan Al Mubaraq !
Ana masruurun bi liqa'i ka ......
* Qiyamullail Menyambut Ramadhan
Masjid As Salam, Depan Penjara Pengkalan Chepa, Kota Bharu, Kelantan.
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| Wednesday, 20-Aug-2008 12:00 |
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FILLER ENTRY : Bilo Gi' Keddaa
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FILLER ENTRY : Bilo Gi' Kedda ....
Bilo gi' keddaa, bilo gi merghkeik ..... ( atau, apabila ke pasar )
ada dua makanan tradisi yang boleh dikatakan jarang ada, yang aku jarang tak beli.
Yang satu, aku masih belum terserempak di luar Kelantan manakala yang lagi satu, aku yakin hanya ada di Kelantan ( jo lor bekalih ! )
Benda feveret yang gunanya buat memecut selera ..... ewwaah !
Sekadar berkongsi ....
* Jerghouk Mammae
Atau dalam bahasa standardnya, Jeruk Maman.
Rasa masam-masam dan sedikit kenyal ( chewy ).
Enak dimakan begitu sahaja bersama nasi dan lauk-pauk lain.
Pembuka selera .... emmm ...
Diperbuat daripada sejenis tumbuhan herba renek iaitu Maman ( Cleome gynandra ) yang diperam dengan sedikit nasi. Warna merah pula kerana .... errrr ? Ada sesiapa boleh tolong ? Biarpun dikatakan juga terdapat di beberapa negeri lain, versi warna merah dirasakan unik bagi Kelantan sahaja.
Selalu dijual di dalam bungkusan plastik sebagaimana ditunjukkan.
Beberapa tahun dahulu, harganya cuma 50 sen sebungkus ( kadang kala dapat RM 1 untuk 3 bungkus ) tetapi kini, harganya di Pasar Besar Siti Khadijah adalah antara 70 sen sehingga RM 1 sebungkus. Namun ada yang masih menawarkan pada harga 50 sen sebungkus, tetapi itu pun jika bernasib baik !
Jerghouk Mammae amat mengingatkan aku akan Tsukemono yang aku amat gemar semasa di Jepun.
Sekiranya ada antara kalian yang memiliki sahabat dari sana, aku syorkan agar diperkenalkan Jerghouk Mammae kepadanya ... ( nanti boleh dapat spare part kereta free ! Ha ha ).
UPDATED 16 SEPT 2008
* Dua spesis Maman yang biasa digunakan - merah ( kiri ) dan hijau ( kanan ).
Spesis merah lebih digunakan, sekaligus menjelaskan mengapa jerghouk mammae berwarna merah ! Ada juga sumber menyatakan bahawa bayam merah ( red spinach ) turut dicampur bagi memekatkan lagi warnanya.
* Achaa Pisae Ggallor ( Acar Pisang Gala )
Acar Masak yang dibuat daripada buah Pisang Gala ( Musa balbisiana ) yang masih muda ( putik pisang ).
Kerana masih muda, biji pisang yang sememangnya banyak, adalah lembut dan tidak menjadi masalah untuk dimakan. Rasanya masam manis dan sedikit kelat tetapi sudah cukup untuk membakar selera.
Biasa dijual dalam keadaan siap berbungkus oleh peniaga makanan bermasak.
Harga sebungkus antara RM 1 hingga RM 2. Bergantung kepada tempat, musim dan keadaan. Banyak dijual semasa bulan Ramadhan, tetapi harganya selalu " istimewa " dari biasa .....
Hah ! Kalau tak silap, yang ni la Uniquely Kelantanese !!
ANTARA FEVERET YANG LAIN : Kerghabu Sarghae
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| Monday, 11-Aug-2008 17:30 |
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ORGHAE KITO ( 2 ) : The Blade, The Wood and The Master Carver
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The next stop in Orghae Kito series. See previous
ORGHAE KITO ( 2 ) :
The Blade, The Wood and The Master Carver
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A Keris is just a blade, without its sarung ( sheath ) and hulu ( hilt )
and the sarung and hulu are perhaps nothing more than a wooden case and a handle
without the special touch of a master carver like May Kris.
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Meet May Kris ( read : Mae Kergheih ) or real name, Rosman Ramli .....
A young master carver in his early 40s, very talented, skilful and well specialized in the art of traditional Malay woodcarving, particularly in the making of sheath and hilt for the Malay blades.
An endangered breed of craftsmen, a man like him in Japan, is without doubt a Nin-Gen Kokuhou or a Living National Treasure - a recognition which made a person, eligible for special protection and support.
I wonder whether there's such thing in Malaysia ....
* Rosman, at one of his working tables, proudly showing one of his nearly finished masterpiece.
I first met Rosman while on an assignment, some eight months ago.
A couple of small but strategically placed signboards, by a roadside at Kampung Banggol, led me to his workshop cum his home, located some few kilometers from the town centre.
Rosman was initially a " backup plan " in my attempt to document the art of Kelantanese woodcarving in Kota Bharu. I was actually eyeing for a different person, a renowned master carver specializing in ornate wooden panelling, furnitures and such. However I was turned down at the mere mention of " photo-taking ". The reason to that, was not explained.
Later, I decided to give Rosman a try. Surprisingly, this time, it was totally different.
Rosman was amazingly warm and welcoming, even allowing me to snap his work, gadgets and his working tables. He entertained my curiosity by further explaining and describing the art of Malay woodcarving, the hidden ideas and motives, even going as far as sharing his deep regret and sadness over the very lack of attention from the authorities in helping to revive the dying art of his trade. The only real attention he said, was from outside Malaysia - far, far away from the Western World.
From the meeting, I found out that Rosman is indeed a type of person who the Kelantanese often cited as " ado patak sipuk ", literally speaking, " having the snail's backside ". A Kelantanese colloquial term for a " naturally talented person " which actually refers to the whorl on one's thumb, like the logarithmic spiral of a snail's shell, believed to be the natural sign for artistically gifted. He is the man who could make flowers and leaves to grow, even create clouds and waves on a piece of palm-sized wood. Truly talented and uniquely gifted.
Unfortunately, I learned from Cikgu Nasir, a school teacher cum Malay weapon enthusiast who keeps a blog about the latter, that Rosman was diagnosed with Leukemia and has been in the hospital, bed-ridden for already 6 months. Just two months after I last saw him.
Cikgu Nasir, upon realising Rosman's condition, decided to come up with an entry, rallying for contributions. He even went further by setting up a special blog for the purpose of fulfilling Rosman's wish in having his precious works sold, in order to catch up on his medical bills and daily expenses.
Though I hardly know Rosman ( he hardly know me either ), well, other than the fact that he is an expert woodcarver specializing in Keris sheath and hilt, I feel obliged to lend him a helping hand.
As a start, I would recommend my dear readers to click on the above links to Cikgu Nasir's blog(s) and .... you know what you should do !
Praying for Rosman's recovery, whatever the chances are.
God Speed, Pahlawan Bangsa !
* Rosman, holding one of his most prized masterpiece, a Keris Tajong.
MORE ON ROSMAN RAMLI OR MAY KRIS :
Cikgu Nasir's Blog : May( Man) Keris
Malaysian Bladeforums : Keris Master of Kota Baru
Malaysian Bladeforums : Keris Master Rosman Ramli Part 1
Malaysian Bladeforums : Keris Master Rosman Ramli Part 2
ON THE OTHER HAND : The Magnificent Keris Tajong
One of Rosman's most prized work ( if not the most ), is the Keris Tajong - a type of keris with a very distinctive hilt and sheath, unique to Pattani and Kelantan and to some extent, Terengganu.
* Rosman Ramli's Keris Tajong.
The hilt - carved in the form of a demonic, anthropomorphic figure with a long nasal protrusion, which many mistook it as a " kingfisher " - is the most interesting feature of a Tajong. I have always been fascinated by one. A type of Keris which could be regarded as " uniquely " Kelantanese.
To me, it is a Keris - with an " attitude " !
The Tajong is much and well described in many books and publications.
There seem to be a lot of references in the Internet too - like the following excerpt, though not the best description, is among those I found helpful in generally describing it.
Click on the link to find out more :
| Quote: |
The tajong is one of the more well known and yet least understood
keris of the Malay Archipelago. Better known as the pekaka, pekakak
or kingfisher, the tajong is certainly one of the most flamboyant and
dramatic keris variants in the family of keris forms.
Most commonly associated with the ethnic Malay region of Pattani in
Southern Thailand, the tajong and other variants are also known to have
originated in the Northwestern Peninsular Malaysian state of Kelantan.
This area formed the core of the ancient empire of Langkasuka which
some scholars suggest was centered somewhere near the present day
city of Pattani.
From : Keris Archipelago - The Tajong
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* Some sample of Tajong hilts, both real and on paper, featured on the Internet.
The Tajong is highly prized now as it was highly prized then.
Interestingly, not only by the Malays of the said region, but also by many Europeans who came across it, during the colonial era.
Sir Henry Norman, a late 19th century English journalist and writer, cited an example in his book - The Peoples and Politics of The Far East ( 1895 ), while describing about Cerlo Ferdinando Bozzolo, an Italian administrator who served the British in Hulu Perak ( a district in Perak, bordering Pattani and Kelantan ).
Norman described Bozzolo as a witty but cunning man, who while craving for an ivory Hulu Tajong to be fitted to his old Keris blade, decided to use those qualities to outsmart an elephant owner - just to get the very much needed ivory for his hilt, as told in the following excerpt from Norman's book.
Note that the author used the term Perkaka - or kingfisher-head - handle in making reference to the Hulu Tajong :
* From the book, The Peoples and Politics of The Far East by Henry Norman.
Page 538 ~ 539 ; Chapter XXXII : A Jungle Journey In Unknown Malaya.
First published in 1895, in London by T. Fisher Unwin.
The book, The Peoples and Politics of The Far East is an interesting work by Henry Norman.
Interesting, as he had his 1890 journey through Kelantan - among the first European to accomplish so - mentioned in the book.
The journey is to be featured in my upcoming entry, " On a Raft Through a Forbidden State " .
.. emmm but not sure when, probably soon.
Oh yeah, back to the Tajong and to sum all these up,
here are some other photos of it that I think, might be interesting ( speaking about being unique and special ! ) :
* The Keris Tajong featured on the old RM 50, Malaysian banknote ( right hand side )
* The Keris Tajong, as worn by The Yang DiPertuan Agong as a part of Malaysian Royal Regalia
- a symbol of Pattani-Kelantan on the waist of a Malaysian supreme ruler.
UPDATED 25 AUGUST 2008
I learned from Cikgu Nasir's blog entry, that Rosman Ramli or May Kris had just passed away.
He was laid to rest on the morning of 20th August 2008, probably at the old Kubur Banggol, just few steps away from where he used to live and work.
He left a wife and several children and he was 43 years old.
A great, great lost indeed.
Lee Chong Wei got his RM 300,000 and RM 3,000 monthly pension for striking silver for Malaysia in the Beijing Olympic and yet, there was this man who dedicated his entire life for the survival of the Nation's heritage and identity .... and received nothing.
How ironic.
Somewhat reminding me of the late Nik Rashidin Nik Hussein, also a highly talented master carver, who also died of cancer in his 40s.
Semoga Allah mencucuri rahmat ke atas rohnya. Amin.
Al Fatihah dan secebis doa buat arwah .....
اَللَّهُمَّ اغْفِرْ لَهُ وَارْحَمْهُ وَعَافِهِ وَاعْفُ عَنْهُ، وَأَكْرِمْ نُزُلَهُ، وَوَسِّعْ مَدْخَلَهُ،
وَاغْسِلْهُ بِالْمَاءِ وَالثَّلْجِ وَالْبَرَدِ، وَنَقِّهِ مِنَ الْخَطَايَا كَمَا نَقَّيْتَ الثَّوْبَ اْلأَبْيَضَ
مِنَ الدَّنَسِ، وَأَبْدِلْهُ دَارًا خَيْرًا مِنْ دَارِهِ، وَأَهْلاً خَيْرًا مِنْ أَهْلِهِ، وَزَوْجًا
خَيْرًا مِنْ زَوْجِهِ، وَأَدْخِلْهُ الْجَنَّةَ، وَأَعِذْهُ مِنْ عَذَابِ الْقَبْروَعَذَابِ النَّار
Note :
The family decided to keep all his precious works and none will be sold.
UPDATED 14 SEPTEMBER 2008
I just realised that there is indeed such thing as Nin-Gen Kokuhou ( or equivalent ) in Malaysia. I learned about it through today's news, that one of its recipients had just passed away.
It was very recently announced by the government on the 25th July 2008, based on the following news report from Utusan Online, 26th July 2008 edition :
| Quote: |
Tokoh Warisan Orang Hidup diumum
KLANG 25 Julai - Kementerian Perpaduan, Kebudayaan, Kesenian dan Warisan
hari ini menyenaraikan lima tokoh budayawan sebagai Warisan Orang Hidup bagi
menghargai jasa mereka terhadap perkembangan kesenian tradisi negara ini.
Lima individu berkenaan ialah penggiat seni penglipurlara dari Johor, Ali Badron
Sabor, 75, Abu Bakar Jaafar, 83, dari Pulau Pinang (boria), Losimin Majanil, 83,
dari Sabah (bobohizan). Dua lagi individu ialah Tan Hooi Song, 62, yang aktif
dalam seni gendang Cina dan Vatsala Sivadas, 66, penggiat seni tari masyarakat
India, Bharatha Natyam.
Menterinya, Datuk Seri Mohd. Shafie Apdal berkata, kelima-lima individu berkenaan
diiktiraf atas usaha mereka mengembangkan kesenian tradisi masyarakat sama
ada di dalam atau luar negara.
"Mereka diisytiharkan sebagai tokoh warisan kerana telah memberi sumbangan
yang besar meliputi seni budaya dan muzik yang menjadi identiti masyarakat negara
ini," katanya kepada pemberita selepas mengadakan lawatan ke Galeri Diraja Sultan
Abdul Aziz di sini hari ini.
Ditanya sama ada kelima-lima individu terbabit akan diberikan ganjaran atau
sebagainya, beliau berkata, setakat ini pihaknya tidak membincangkan mengenai
perkara itu. Sebaliknya, pihaknya akan menampilkan individu berkenaan dalam
pameran kesenian yang dianjurkan oleh kementerian termasuk menjadikan mereka
sebagai rujukan warisan bangsa.
"Kita tidak fikirkan soal ganjaran atau kewangan, tetapi mereka ini kita akan
ketengahkan selain menjadi rujukan kepada generasi kini dan masa depan," ujarnya.
From :
Utusan Online, 26 July 2008 - " Tokoh Warisan Orang Diumum "
( Living National Treasures Announced )
Related :
The Star, 9 August 2008 - " She’s a national treasure "
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However, the recognition seems to be more on performance art and nothing from Kelantan was put forward ( even though I personally see Dikir Barat as much more popular than Boria .. he he he ).
Reading and judging from that, even if Rosman Ramli is still alive and kicking,
I doubt that he or any person like him would get enlisted.
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| Wednesday, 30-Jul-2008 14:00 |
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FILLER ENTRY : Surprise, Surprise, Surprise !
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FILLER ENTRY :
Surprise, Surprise, Surprise !
SURPRISE NO. 1
I was driving through town when I came across this newly put up tourism promo or advert ( or anything you wish to call it ), on a billboard located at Jalan Wakaf Mek Zainab - Jalan Post Office Lama junction.
Just a stone throw away from the well known Kilae Gaessaek.
What really surprised me is that image ..... of a house.
A quick glance and I sensed something very familiar.
So familiar, that when I looked at it again, I was so sure, without any doubt at all, that it was, what I initially think it was. I couldn't help grinning upon realising it.
The image, the angle of the shot, though looked very familiar, doesn't seem to come from any of my digital possessions. Simply put, it was neither mine nor I had anything to do with it. Still, I had this strong feeling that to come up with the image, someone must surely had gone through and took interest in what I previously wrote.
While it is great to see the house up there, it is however, quite ironic for the advert, promoting traces of old Kelantanese heritage still left in Kota Bharu, to display the magnificent century old timber structure, when it is no more to be found in Kelantan ... let alone in Kota Bharu !
Those who knows nothing about it, would certainly be led to believe that the structure is somewhere close by - as a part of local " warisan " ( heritage ), to be " jejak " ( traced & found ) in Kota Bharu. If so, it would be a misleading statement, an irony or worse, a sarcasm in disguise - in light of the ongoing demise of Kelantanese architectural treasures.
( or is it, " menjejaki semula warisan yang telah tiada " ? Ehehe .... )
Nevertheless, and to be fair, the move really deserves an applause, a truly praiseworthy effort - of course, provided that it lives up to its name and real objective, whatever it might be.
Hopefully, through such, there will be no more magnificent old Kelantanese architectural beauty kissing the ground, in this well reputed " Cradle of Malay Civilization ".
SURPRISE NO. 2
I was travelling one day, down Jalan Long Yunus from Tanjung Chat towards
Jalan Telipot, when I saw something bizarre, hanging on the lamp pole just outside Sekolah Kebangsaan Islah !!
No, not a Hantu Raya, not a lost Orang Lenggor or even Mat Rempit ....
Just another, commonly found anti-Aedes mosquito ( anti-Dengue fever ) campaign banner but with a very familiar touch :
Again, with no doubt, it was the HOUSE .... again.
This time I am truly sure where the person behind it, got the image from.
While I appreciate he or she who decided to publicize it, albeit in this manner,
I was quite disturbed as, upon closer inspection, the image was obviously taken from my site, of course, without my consent and permission.
Not even a photo credit !
Just in case if you don't believe me :
SURPRISE NO. 3
Travelling down the road from the town centre en route to Pantai Cahaya Bulan,
the sight that I always anticipate after crossing Sungai Keladi Bridge and upon reaching the Kampung Cina Roundabout, is an old Chinese family house, with a distinctive, old Kelantanese Chinese architecture.
Single wooden structure with wide, slanting long roof of Singhorra tiles - features representing the local Chinese culture which I find unique and enjoyable to look at.
But now, I think I am going to miss the wonderful sight ..... well, sort of ...
I have these love and hate relationships with billboards and banners.
To me, an excellent, creatively, brilliantly designed and wisely positioned billboard or banner is a great work of art, even giving a particular place, a unique identity to boast of.
But even an " excellent, creatively, brilliantly designed " one would prove inappropriate, useless or worse, an eyesore if little care was taken in placing it in public.
That I am afraid, if such activity is not properly monitored, Kota Bharu will definitely replace or at least challenge Shah Alam, Petaling Jaya or even Penang in terms of eyesore advertisement boards and banners ....
One of those things that I hope Kota Bharu would not turn into.
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" I HAVE noticed of late a significant proliferation in the putting up of
billboards in Penang.
A long stretch of billboards has been erected along Gurney Drive near
Gurney Plaza.
These boards are placed so near and so close to each other, they stand
out like a sore thumb against the beautiful backdrop of the sea.
........
These huge billboards and banners are such an eyesore at these tourist
attraction areas and along these scenic routes ..... "
Billboards An Eyesore In Penang - The Star Online : Tuesday, June 17, 2008.
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" Datuk Bandar Petaling Jaya, Datuk Roslan Sakiman berkata, pembekuan
tersebut adalah bagi memudahkan kerajaan negeri mengenal pasti papan
iklan yang mempunyai lesen dan sebaliknya.
Selain itu, katanya, langkah itu juga adalah bagi menghindarkan kewujudan
papan iklan yang tidak teratur sehingga mencacatkan pemandangan ... "
Lesen Papan Iklan Baru di Petaling Jaya Dibeku - Utusan Online : 1 Ogos 2008.
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SURPRISE NO. 4
Very recently, an acquaintance of mine had the family very old, ornate Cengal wood archway ( some say, a gateway ) - once proudly marking, adorning the entrance to a short pathway leading to his century old family house - sold to an antique collector for a sum far less than the price of a decent scooter.
For all these years, it stood there, by the roadside of Jalan Post Office Lama, as perhaps one of the last few remaining relics of pre-colonial Kelantan. A subject of awe and amazement for a young passer-by like me, who is easily amazed and proud with the fine workmanships of the past, shown on such remarkable pieces.
Now tucked away in an unknown location, in someone private collection, I feel sorry for it.
For not being able to educate the public,
like it silently did for all these years .....
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| Monday, 21-Jul-2008 13:00 |
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Masjid Lama Mulong : Apabila Diri Kembali Disayangi ...
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Masjid Lama Mulong : Pandangan Dari Jalan (1)
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Masjid Lama Mulong : Pandangan Dari Jalan (2)
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Masjid Lama Mulong : Pandangan Dari Jalan (3)
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MASJID LAMA MULONG :
Apabila Diri Kembali Disayangi ...
( boleh dianggap sebagai satu kesinambungan dari entri yang lepas )
Masjid Ar-Rahman atau lebih dikenali sebagai Masjid Lama Mulong.
Sungguh tak disangka, walaupun dari kejauhan tampak biasa sahaja,
spesimen yang mempamerkan keunikan warisan silam senibina Melayu Kelantan yang kini amat jarang dapat disaksikan, rupa-rupanya masih berdiri utuh di sini, jelas tersergam di satu pinggir Jalan Kuala Krai, tidak jauh dari Masjid Lama Kampung Laut !
Ianya terletak lebih kurang 8 kilometer ke selatan pusat bandar Kota Bharu, di satu kawasan bernama Mulong, dalam Daerah Pendek, Jajahan Kota Bharu. Mencarinya juga tidak susah, kurang satu kilometer ke utara Masjid Lama Kampung Laut di Nilam Puri dan cuma sejengkal kera dari bahu jalan yang dimaksudkan. Jelas kelihatan biarpun dari atas kenderaan yang bergerak.
Walaupun tidak dapat dipastikan bila ianya dibina ( sumber tidak rasmi menyatakan, awal abad ke-20 ? ), tatacara pembinaan serta ciri-ciri senibina yang ditunjukkan adalah tipikal bagi senibina tradisonal Melayu Kelantan sebelum Perang Dunia Kedua. Ciri-ciri tersebut dapat diperhatikan pada bahagian dinding, pintu, tiang, ruang atap dan juga struktur keseluruhan bangunan. Walaupun hampir ketiadaan bahagian yang berukir, ukiran pada pepenjuru tiang-tiang utama, walaupun ringkas, dirasakan amat unik serta tidak ditemukan pada tiang-tiang seumpamanya pada binaan-binaan tradisional lama lain di Kelantan.
Apa apa pun, yang lebih mengujakan aku adalah,
setelah sekian lama dalam keadaan agak terabai dan dimamah usia, bangunan masjid ini kelak akan dipulihara secara proaktif, oleh Jabatan Warisan Negara. Itu pun dari apa yang aku baca dari notis-notis yang sedia tertampal di beberapa bahagian masjid.
Syukurlah kerana dengan demikian, nampaknya ada satu bentuk jaminan yang ianya akan terus kekal buat tatapan generasi kini dan mendatang. Walaupun semasa aku ke situ, masih tidak kelihatan langkah yang diambil ( mungkin masih dalam perangkaan ), aku tetap terdorong untuk menyatakan sepenuh penghargaan dan tahniah atas keprihatinan dan inisiatif yang ditunjukkan oleh pihak berwajib.
Setidak tidaknya ada jaminan yang ianya tidak akan terus terbiar dimamah usia, menanti roboh, atau berakhir di kedai-kedai antik buat simpanan peribadi atau diangkut jauh ke luar Kelantan atau pun sekadar berakhir sebagai kayu api buat memasak Gulaa Kawoh, Sambaa Daging, Surgho dan seumpamanya.
Tahniah !
Errrrrr ... tapi, bagaimana pula dengan yang lain ?
* Apa yang dikenali sebagai Dinding Janda Berhias
Binaan dinding seperti ini adalah kebiasaan bagi masjid-masjid, istana dan kediaman-kediaman golongan
bangsawan dan berada di Kelantan sehingga awal abad ke-20. Dibina melalui gabungan kepingan-kepingan
panel kayu dan disusun dengan sedemikian rupa.
Kelihatan di bahagian dinding ini, adalah dua keping akrilik telus cahaya yang dipasang bagi menggantikan
panel kayu asal, bertujuan menggalakkan lagi pencahayaan dalaman bangunan.
Bahagian dinding, di hujung kiri gambar adalah tambahan baru, mungkin bagi menggantikan dinding asal
( janda berhias ) yang telah usang dan reput.
* Unjuran lantai dan tiang berukir.
Unjuran lantai sebegini memang unik bagi binaan tradisional Melayu Kelantan sebelum Perang Dunia Kedua.
Struktur sebegini juga turut kelihatan pada beberapa rumah-rumah lama di bandar Kota Bharu. Tujuan diadakan
sedemikian tidak pula dapat dipastikan.
Kelihatan juga ukiran pada tiang.
Walaupun berniat baik, cat yang berlebihan, lebih-lebih lagi jika berlapis-lapis hanya akan melenyapkan
manifestasi ukiran seperti ini - tetapi, nampaknya terpaksa juga dilakukan demi memulihara kayu.
* Bahagian mimbar dan bahagian saf hadapan.
Apa yang pada kebiasaannya dipasang tiang, digantikan dengan sambungan khas yang ditandakan dengan
Buah Gutong pada siling. Siling sebenarnya tidak wujud dalam senibina tradisional Melayu. Siling yang
kelihatan merupakan tambahan baru, yang memungkinkan lampu dan kipas dipasang.
Berkenaan mimbar, masjid ini tidak lagi diwartakan sebagai masjid bagi tujuan solat Jumaat.
Sejak bila, tidaklah diketahui. Yang pasti, dahulunya ia berperanan penuh sebagai masjid mukim
dan kini ianya sekadar bertaraf sebuah masjid iktikaf semata.
* Pepenjuru yang berukir pada hujung bawah dan atas tiang utama.
Satu ciri yang unik, rasanya tidak ada pada tiang-tiang seumpamanya seperti di Istana Balai Besar,
Istana Jahar mahupun Masjid Lama Kampung Laut.
* Tiada paku, skru mahupun bolt dan nat digunakan.
Struktur sokongan dan sambungan pada ruangan atap yang unik bagi senibina tradisional Melayu.
Hanya sambungan tanggam dan pasak kayu sahaja. Perhatikan juga barisan kayu jerghia ( jerial )
yang pastinya dahulu, buat menyangkut atap bata Singhorra.
* Sisip angin berukir, dengan ukiran geometrik.
Bagi memudahkan pengaliran udara, bertujuan menyejukkan ruang dalaman pada zaman tatkala kipas elektrik
dan tenaga elektrik, sesuatu yang tidak terlintas di fikiran. Tipikal bagi kediaman tradisional masyarakat Melayu.
 
* Imej kiri :
Buah Gutong ( juga disebut Buah Guntong, Buton, atau Buntong ) pada siling.
Dipasang di sini bagi menggantikan apa yang kebiasaannya adalah tiang.
Bertujuan meluaskan lagi ruang dalaman bangunan.
Imej kanan :
Pintu jenis lama, tipikal bagi binaan kayu tradisional sehingga awal abad ke-20.
Tiada engsel logam. Berfungsi dengan turus kayu bulat pada hujung atas dan bawah daun pintu.
KEMASKINI 20 MAC 2009
Nampaknya apa yang dinanti akhirnya terjadi jua.
Petikan akhbar Utusan Malaysia Online, 19 Mac 2009 sebagaimana dipetik di bawah akhirnya membawa berita yang aku nanti-nantikan selama ini.
Masjid tua yang unik ini akhirnya mendapat perhatian dan pembelaan yang sewajarnya dari pihak yang berkenaan. Namun, malang sekali kerana aku tak dapat mengikuti ( dan membuat liputan ) kerja-kerja yang dilangsungkan kerana terpaksa meluangkan masa berbulan-bulan lamanya di luar Kelantan semasa ianya bermula. Sehingga kemaskini ini dinaikkan sekalipun, aku masih lagi berada di luar Kelantan, entah bila dapat pulang.
Apa apa pun, yang pasti, aku tumpang gembira !
| Quote: |
Keunikan Masjid Lama Mulong
Oleh ASMA HANIM MAHMOOD
utusankelantan@utusan.com.my
KOTA BHARU 18 Mac - Seimbas pandang dari luaran, Masjid Lama Mulong, terletak
hampir 10 kilometer dari bandar ini hanyalah sebuah masjid biasa yang kecil dan sudah
dimamah usia serta mungkin menunggu masa untuk roboh.
Namun tidak ramai yang menyedari, masjid yang tidak lagi diwartakan untuk solat
Jumaat itu disenaraikan sebagai Bangunan Warisan Negara, satu monumen yang akan
terus dipulihara untuk kegunaan dan tatapan generasi akan datang.
Pesuruhjaya Jabatan Warisan Negara, Datin Paduka Zuraina Majid baru-baru ini
mengumumkan ia adalah antara 11 bangunan bersejarah di seluruh negara yang diberi
tumpuan untuk baik pulih sepanjang tahun ini.
Projek ini telah bermula sejak 23 Oktober 2008 dan ia dijangka siap sepenuhnya Mei
depan. Setelah sekian lama dalam keadaan agak terabai, tindakan proaktif ini
memberi jaminan ia akan berkekalan.
Sebenarnya masjid kayu yang didirikan tanpa paku selain sambungan tanggam dan
pasak pada era 50-an itu, mengetengahkan keunikan warisan silam seni bina Melayu
Kelantan yang kini amat jarang dapat disaksikan.
Walaupun reka bentuk binaannya agak ringkas, ciri-cirinya biasa kedapatan di istana
dan kediaman golongan bangsawan di negeri ini pada masa silam yang menonjolkan
kepakaran tukangnya.
Ia boleh dilihat pada struktur keseluruhan bangunan, pada bahagian dinding, pintu, tiang
dan ruang atap walaupun bahagian yang berukir hampir tiada.
Asalnya daripada bahan binaan istana di Balairung Seri Raja Dewa di bandar ini yang
dibangunkan pada awal 1900, dirombak dan dibina semula sebagai masjid di bahu
jalan atas tanah wakaf Abdul Rahman Ismail dan dikenali sebagai Masjid Ar-Rahman.
..................................
* Baca selanjutnya di SINI
* Berita berkaitan di SINI
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